I’ll take a look when I get off work but some pictures to show some common pests newcomers might encounter: Planeria, Detritus worms, seed shrimp, scuds and snails. Oh, hydra too. Seems like we get requests for identification if these things a couple times a week
Normal shrimp behavior was a big one for me! Mine kept trying to climb out of my tank onto a moist piece of driftwood, and for the longest time I thought something was wrong with my water… nope, they just wanted the tasty stuff growing on the wood.
This year I learned a very important lesson. PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR WEATHER BEFORE ORDERING LIVE ANIMALS. I order some shrimp one week but they didn’t ship until following week. When I ordered the it was ~85°f. When they arrived temp had soared to 105°f they cooked all day in delivery truck arrived boiled.
This is the wrong place for this question but I just wanna throw it out there. Is ADA Amazonia bad for keeping caridina shrimp? I’ve recently had an issue keeping them alive or even wanting to eat and slowly wither away over a week or two. Though I recently discovered my test strips were faulty and my nitrates have been around 80ppm since ive been trying to troubleshoot. I’m getting them down but I don’t want to shock the shrimp that have survived (4 of 20) and am doing 5% water changes daily.
Was it the nitrates all along or was the Amazonia playing a role too? I can’t find any information on that soil specifically.
I guess my question above was relevant somewhat. While this hobby is incredibly rewarding (when things are working haha) it can be relatively difficult to find the right information for diagnosing issues based on shrimp activity.
This is so great! Thanks OP! I’m working on starting a shrimp tank and it’s been kind of difficult to find info. Lots of good info out there it’s just all over the place
Something about dealing with green hair algae and other algae. My tank is overrun with it and I use only 6 hrs of light at not even full brightness nitrate/nitrite all 0. I’ve tried all the things I’ve read online minus getting an Amano (since I read they can eat my cherries). I’m experimenting with some nerites and I think they might be helping keep it in control.
Ro water is cheap to make( filter on Amazon for like 50$ and will make your life so much easier. Way more stable water parameters means less needless shrimpy deaths. Also on shrimp only tanks just top off don’t do water changes.
Im not sure how exactly to word this (why I haven’t written a guide), but something Ive always wanted is an anatomy drawing labeling all the parts of the shrimp with maybe some warning signs of things to look for on that piece. Then when you’re talking about disease or parasite infections, we have a common pool of anatomy terms to more precisely describe whats wrong with our tank bugs.
Don’t chase parameters. They like stability more than “perfect” water.
That being said, every tank is it’s own (very cranky) critter. I have 4 breeding tanks, they share one light, identical sponge filters run off a shared air pump, same feeding schedule (quantity based on number of occupants), same temp, planted the same, etc… Yet, one is covered in filamentous algae, one has green water, in one all the plants died, and the last one is thriving and perfect. Don’t ask me why, I got no clue.
Amerlan 
I’ll take a look when I get off work but some pictures to show some common pests newcomers might encounter: Planeria, Detritus worms, seed shrimp, scuds and snails. Oh, hydra too. Seems like we get requests for identification if these things a couple times a week
Normal shrimp behavior was a big one for me! Mine kept trying to climb out of my tank onto a moist piece of driftwood, and for the longest time I thought something was wrong with my water… nope, they just wanted the tasty stuff growing on the wood.
How important TDS/GH/KH testing is.
How to introduce them without constantly changing your parameters. (i.e. no mineral shock if they come in softer water)
How the specific parameters (aside from nh3/no2/no3) aren’t exact and for most species can be off by quite a bit and still be healthy
so cool! thanks for sharing
This year I learned a very important lesson. PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR WEATHER BEFORE ORDERING LIVE ANIMALS. I order some shrimp one week but they didn’t ship until following week. When I ordered the it was ~85°f. When they arrived temp had soared to 105°f they cooked all day in delivery truck arrived boiled.
To not house them with bettas. Ever. I was misinformed at my petsmart. I lost 13 shrimp.
This is the wrong place for this question but I just wanna throw it out there. Is ADA Amazonia bad for keeping caridina shrimp? I’ve recently had an issue keeping them alive or even wanting to eat and slowly wither away over a week or two. Though I recently discovered my test strips were faulty and my nitrates have been around 80ppm since ive been trying to troubleshoot. I’m getting them down but I don’t want to shock the shrimp that have survived (4 of 20) and am doing 5% water changes daily.
Was it the nitrates all along or was the Amazonia playing a role too? I can’t find any information on that soil specifically.
I guess my question above was relevant somewhat. While this hobby is incredibly rewarding (when things are working haha) it can be relatively difficult to find the right information for diagnosing issues based on shrimp activity.
This is so great! Thanks OP! I’m working on starting a shrimp tank and it’s been kind of difficult to find info. Lots of good info out there it’s just all over the place
Something about dealing with green hair algae and other algae. My tank is overrun with it and I use only 6 hrs of light at not even full brightness nitrate/nitrite all 0. I’ve tried all the things I’ve read online minus getting an Amano (since I read they can eat my cherries). I’m experimenting with some nerites and I think they might be helping keep it in control.
Not shrimp related.
But glue your rocks and wood, even if it seems to hold when empty. My wood isn’t fixed and it’s a mess to clean.
Get the GH test kit and KH test kit before buying shrimp because it’s hard to reduce GH without a RO water system. I used water from my dehumidifier.
Ro water is cheap to make( filter on Amazon for like 50$ and will make your life so much easier. Way more stable water parameters means less needless shrimpy deaths. Also on shrimp only tanks just top off don’t do water changes.
That r/ShrimpsIsBugs
Im not sure how exactly to word this (why I haven’t written a guide), but something Ive always wanted is an anatomy drawing labeling all the parts of the shrimp with maybe some warning signs of things to look for on that piece. Then when you’re talking about disease or parasite infections, we have a common pool of anatomy terms to more precisely describe whats wrong with our tank bugs.
Stability stability stability.
Don’t chase parameters. They like stability more than “perfect” water.
That being said, every tank is it’s own (very cranky) critter. I have 4 breeding tanks, they share one light, identical sponge filters run off a shared air pump, same feeding schedule (quantity based on number of occupants), same temp, planted the same, etc… Yet, one is covered in filamentous algae, one has green water, in one all the plants died, and the last one is thriving and perfect. Don’t ask me why, I got no clue.
At the time of research I did not find out about aquasoils , and how important the correct one hence I killed many cherry shrimp 🙁