I actually obtained my shrimp YESTERDAY. Can anybody assist me?

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lins51387
23 Comments
  1. GH Mineralize is to increase hardness. Why are you using this for hard water?

  2. Looks to be uncycled, if that’s the case you’re likely to lose the rest unless you have a more established tank to transfer them to. I wouldn’t use ferts in the shrimp tank and even the shrimp safe ones typically have trace amounts of harmful metallics. Another thing I’d do is test the hardness regularly if you’re not, using a water remineralizer like that can certainly be harmful if you aren’t monitoring it. If the water is too hard the shrimp can’t molt and will die. Your water looks to have a lot of tannins too, probably from recent addition of your drift wood but I think shrimp actually thrive off tannins but could’ve hurt your gup. Hope any of that helps

  3. When you say your tank has been running for two weeks, were you adding a source of ammonia and checking to see if your tank was cycled in those two weeks, or literally just letting it run? There’s a water quality issue going on here and as well as further hardening hard water, a lack of cycling could be to blame.

  4. Maybe it’s the flourish. I used a small amount once when it said it was ok for snails and shrimp. My shrimp were fine but a snail died. That made me question how safe especially when I under dosed. I now use aquarium co op fertilizer and I like it a lot more.

    If you are sure your water parameters are fine, maybe your guppy was stressed or sick. They’re shoaling fish so they do best in groups.

  5. Speaking from experience, I think you’re overusing chemicals in the tank. I lost a few fish and shrimp doing the same a decade ago when I was just getting started. I know they’re supposed to help, it’s what it says they do on the bottle, but I just grew skeptical over the years. Now I use no chemicals at all. I just heavily plant the tanks and do a once-in-a-while water change. I try and keep it as close to it would be in the wild as possible and now it seems like my fish and shrimp are damn near immortal. They even lay eggs now so I haven’t had to buy any new fish or shrimp in close to 7 years. I got the knowledge from the book “the ecology of the planted aquarium”. I think the most important thing is to be patient and let the microbiology flourish on it’s own. It’s almost like the less I do to my tank, the better it thrives.

  6. I dont think anyone has said this yet very directly: SHRIMP NEED STABILITY. That means 2 things.

    1. Your tank is NOT still cycling with amonia, nitrite and nitrate variations. 2. They also need a certain range / level of minerals / total disslved solids / water hardness paramaters to live and for successful molting (unsuccessful molting = death). This level must also remain stable.

    Frequent water changes fuck that up. Evaporation from the tank changes concetrations of minerals as well.

    Get a total disolved solids meter (10 bucks) and the api kh test kit once your tank is cycle. Many enthusiast shrimp keepers only use completely pure water which they then remineralize to the desired parameters and then only as that to the tank for water changes, and also being mindful to test the tank concetration to make sure that is witnin parameters and hasnt been skewed by evaporation or minerals leaching from the hardscape.

    I know this cuz i attempted what you did a month ago. This guide was sorta funny and very informative.

    https://www.shrimplyexplained.com/the-shrimp-school/sb-103-basics-ph-kh-aquarium/

  7. You definitely rushed the tank setup. shrimp need a well-cycled and then established tank that is stable to survive, once you figure how how to hit those parameters and keep them there it will turn out fine but you have to be patient.

    Start buy getting an API Freshwater Master Test Kit ($20 on amazon) and a API GH/KH Test Kit ($13 on amazon) you have to have accurate readings of the tank to know what to make your water change water correct.

    Stability is the key, GH & KH need to stay constant if you are going to change things no more than a degree or two in any direction with water changes. That kind of stability prevents deaths. Your PH is pretty much set by your substrate, don’t fight and try to chase the numbers. Your GH/KH is set by the re-mineralizer you use (I use Salty Shrimp perfect for Neos), some provide higher KH some lower. Find the one that works best for the shrimp you intend to keep, with the water you use and your tank, as long as it puts you in parameters find the sweet spot and keep it there. When I first started I had every chemical under the sun to try and manage stability and chased the numbers, then I learned it is about setting things up right and doing the minimal amount of adjustment to keep things stable. Sounds like you are off to a rough start, be patient and it will pay off.

    Are you mixing the re-mineralizer in the tank? If so I don’t recommend that. Mix your water in a 5 Gal bucket to make sure you have everything correct before you add it to the tank. I use a mix of distilled to tap at a ratio of 3 to 1 or so, until I get the PH and temp that is right for my tank and then I remineralize until my GH is 1-2 degrees below my tank (it creeps up with evaporation) you want the GH at 6-8 for Neos and KH 2-5. Also, when I add the water back in I use an airline as a siphon hose to refill the tank slowly, no water dumps. You can make changes to the tank parameters by 1-2 degrees during water changes, but you want that change to happen as slowly as possible.

    If you have fish dying in the tank, you are going to lose the rest of the shrimp as guppies are a lot hardier than shrimp. Let things settle down, find your tanks stable PH and mix to what that is, get everything solid and stable and when your water changes aren’t causing swings you can see how the guppies do, then wait another month and then try shrimp again. Get juveniles because they adapt easier and make sure you drip acclimate them into the tank. Oh and read everything you can on this forum.

    Best of luck

  8. Shrimp need a completely cycled tank, without they will 100% die unfortunately, you’re best off letting it cycle properly then adding fish! Shrimp aren’t as easy or as hardy as fish so they’d be the last thing you should add into your tank whilst it’s new.

    Definitely recommend doing some more reading and care maintenance about them before trying again, just to save yourself some heartbreak as there’s nothing worse than warning one slowly die and not being able to help them.

    I hope you get sorted soon, sorry for your losses.

  9. It’s not cycled long enough 😩 I wouldn’t get attached to anything in that tank to be honest. I cycle my new tanks for a month with brio powder at a high temp or 2 months with brio powder and regular temps

  10. Do you have any airstone or filtration going in in the tank? Also by any chance, are you using the Excel version of Flourish?

  11. What kind of water? Tap? Tap has lots of copper in it, more than Flourish, from copper supply lines.

  12. That tank looks uncycled. Research “fish in cycling “ and make sure you look it up for shrimp to and be prepared to change a lot of water. Shrimp are a lot more sensitive than a lot of fish to changes so it may take longer to cycle properly. Make sure you check the fert if it has a lot of copper in it that is deadly to shrimp. Also make sure your shrimp have a good source of calcium to help the molt. You can get calcium powder, egg shells, rocks from online, and cuttlefish bone along with many other options. I wish you the best. If you have any questions feel free to pm.

  13. Be careful with ph Swings with hard/soft water. Better stable than perfect!

  14. When you’ve cycled the tank properly, you should also look into drip acclimating the shrimp to the tank. Don’t just dump them in there (even if you let them get used to the temp first). It’s important to slowly add your water to theirs so they get used to it.

  15. Bro you didn’t cycle your tank, you’re suffering from new tank syndrome right now, I expect all of those shrimp to die.

  16. Shrimp are tough but do not do well with quick or suddenly changes. Unfortunately i only had luck when adding them to an established tank, as you’re still cycling that’s likely your issue, or at least a large factor.

  17. What’s your ph?

  18. You have to do some water parameter testing but I’m leaning towards a new set up with inexperience and bad water parameters for shrimp.

  19. Your tank is super new so you need hardy livestock. Guppies and shrimp are so fragile.

  20. Not sure if this will help (or maybe was already said), but if you are talking about having soft water due to having a water softening system… with most homes, the kitchen sink cold water bypasses the softening system so it stays “hard” or “safe” to consume/ water your plants/ pets/ etc.
    Of course this isn’t all homes or places so you will have to check. This is what I use for my water changes since I have the softening system and I’ve never had to use any additives. I have a cycled tank that’s almost 2 years though. I also have plants and never fertilize them because I believe the fish/ shrimp poo does a great job of that (I could be wrong and something else is doing it… I’m definitely a beginner lol) Haven’t lost anymore shrimp since learning this when it was about a 3 month tank.

  21. Just as a tip if hardness is an issue get crushed coral for the tank and add approximately a nets worth to a tank of that size (like the net you scoop fish with) after you’ve rinsed it with water (it’ll murky up the tank if you don’t) and after about a week of being in a tank that size you’ll have ideal KH and PH.

    Also I know people vary on this and you’ll want the tank cycled first but ramshorn snails are incredible with keeping it tidy.

    Also I love the driftwood, very jealous.

  22. Did you drip acclimate it?

  23. When you say the tank has been running for over 2 weeks before putting any livestock in, did you add any ammonia or beneficial bacteria?

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